Feb. 3, 2008 -- Each week, we receive hundreds of emails for our panel of experts. We will select a representative sample of a wide variety of questions and present them to our authorities in their respective fields. We hope these provide some insight and help you to enjoy your game a little more. For further explanations, please see your local PGA Professional.

Instruction: Jim Hardy, 2007 National PGA Teacher of the Year

Q: My question for you is regarding my iron play. I usually hit my drives nice and straight, but when it comes time for me to take a shot with my irons I struggle badly. I am very inconsistent, and I can't seem to hit crisp straight iron shots. If you have any tips or drills that I might be able to use I would greatly appreciate your feedback.
Sincerely,
Joshua Barnett

A: Good driving and poor iron play is usually a result of a shallow angle of attack during impact. To fix your irons without changing your swing which is hitting the ball well with your driver, you might try a grip pressure change. If you can locate the spot below the base of your right thumb, at the heel of your right palm where your life line ends, you have the point where you will want to apply pressure against the top of the left thumb. Imagine you have a tack at that point and just before impact and during impact, push the tack into your left thumb with the exact point I have described on the heel of your right palm. Push your right heel palm tight against the left thumb and that will help you to deliver the club into the ball with a stronger, more crushing blow.

Q: I'm a 6 handicap. On full swings, my missed shots are blocks out to the right. After a few, I start flipping the club to bring it back on line. It's a bad pattern, I realize. Problem for me is, I can't feel the difference between a good swing and a block. What are the mechanics of a blocked shot, and what positive thought can I have to keep my shots on line?
Ben Harvey

A: You are swinging a little too much in-to-out with the right hand staying under the left too long. This produces the block and the only way to release the club from there is to flip the wrists. Try allowing the right hand/forearm to roll OVER the left hand/forearm during impact. Your shot pattern will tell you if you are doing this too early or too late. The important thing is to get rid of the right hand/forearm under the left too long in your downswing. You need to get more "on top of the shot". It will also help you to extend the right arm back to the inside (left) after impact so your swing is more in-to-in rather than so much in-to-out.

Rules: Brad Gregory, Vice-Chairman of PGA Rules Committee

When your ball is underwater and in the bunker, what do you do? (Photo: Getty Images)

Q:I hit a ball into the bunker that is filled with water. I can take a drop but I will be standing in ankle deep water regardless where I drop the ball. Do I drop outside the hazard? What do I do and where do I drop ?
douglas south

A: The Rules consider the possibility that a bunker can be so full of water that "complete" relief is impossible. Rule 25-1b (Abnormal Ground Conditions; Relief) gives a player two options. First, without penalty, drop the ball in the bunker at the point where the depth of the casual water is least for both the ball and/or your feet. Second, under penalty of one stroke, drop the ball out of the bunker keeping the spot where the ball was between you and the hole.

Q: The ball is covered with sand in a bunker. You see the top of the ball but can't identify it. With the new rule of ID in the hazard, please give advice on how exactly to do this so I can tell my regular group the rule. thanks
Chris Connell

A: Great question! Starting this year the player is allowed to lift his ball from either a bunker or a water hazard to see if it's his. However, they must follow a procedure as outlined in Rule 12-2. First, announce your intention to your opponent, marker or fellow-competitor and mark the ball. Usually this is done with a coin or a tee. Then you can lift the ball provided you give that person a chance to watch you lift and replace it. If the ball is yours you need to put it back. In a bunker, you may have to cover it back up with sand so the original lie is restored.

Equipment: Tom Henderson, PGA Professional & Master Club Fitter

Q: How can I find out what the compression of golf balls are. They don't put it on their balls any more and it makes it to hard to figure out what balls to by. I'm 69 and love the game but my club speed is only 75-80 so I need a softer balls so I was told. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Harold Gilg

A: Thanks for your equipment question on the new PGA.com.

Talk of "compression" is pretty much a thing of the past. I used to measure a ball's compression in a tube-like unit that, when you pulled the lever down, would give you a numerical reading (I still have mine but now it serves as a conversation piece). It also had a feature that could check the "roundness" of your ball, which was valuable when balata was the cover of choice. With today's surlyn-covered balls, manufacturers do all the work for you, providing all of the technical information for each ball offering.

If your clubhead speed is in the 75-80 mph range with a driver, you should experiment with a softer ball such as the Nike Juice or Nike Karma. These balls are specifically designed for your particular swing speed range. You may even consider experimenting with a little more loft with your driving club.

I am always looking to optimize launch angle with the driver. More loft and a softer ball just may do the trick for you.

Good luck and keep me posted.

Q: I am 55 yrs. old and I work out at a gym 3x"s a week. Last year I had a custom driver made for me by a certified club maker, who has a very good reputation. After putting me on all of the equipment that he had, he recommended for a driver that was a 13 degree loft with a senior shaft. I played all last year, took several lessons and I actually lost distance. Before that I bought a 10.5 degree driver with a regular shaft and I can get the ball down to the 150 yard marker, verses struggling with the new driver down to the 200 yard marker. I am very confused. Please help. thanks,
Steve

A: What part of the country do you play in?

If your playing on firm, flat terrain (ex. Florida, Texas), you may be better off with that 10.5 degree driver you were playing with. On the other hand, if you are a "linkster" that plays most of his golf where there is a premium on carry (ex. Northeast), the more lofted driver might be the answer.

It sounds like you are physically fit and probably create a fair amount of clubhead speed. The true test would be to evaluate actual ball flight (seeing it, not hitting into a net) and match up your trajectory with the conditions you play most of your golf in.

Hope this gets rid of most of the confusion.